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Your oasis in the Otavi mountains

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Fresh fruits and vegetables from Ghaub

Water is abundant, the soil is well suited, the temperatures are favourable. So why not grow fruit and vegetables instead of buying it in supermarkets that import it from South Africa which is hundreds of miles away? In the near future Ghaub will pamper its guests with its own farm products...

  • From the tree into the bottle: Lemon syrup is Ghaub's first farm product

    From the tree into the bottle: Lemon syrup is Ghaub's first farm product. Photo: Sven-Eric Stender

  • Label for fruit, vegetables, meat and other products of the brand Ghaub Farm Products

    Label for fruit, vegetables, meat and other products of the brand "Ghaub Farm Products"

There was a greenhouse for herbs at Ghaub already for a long time, right next to the kitchen of the lodge. However, in September larger areas were covered with shadow net and vegetable beds were created in the farm section. Fruit trees had been planted already in the previous year.

Ghaub wants to offer a wide range of farm products. According to initial calculations, it costs less to produce own fruit and vegetables than to buy it in the wholesale. The water is rich in minerals and the soil will be naturally fertilised with cow manure and hay. On top of it, the project creates additional jobs.

The planned range of vegetables is wide: In addition to tomatoes, cucumbers and radishes there are various types of lettuce on the list, from Lollo Rosso to lettuce. Potatoes, carrots, onions and leeks will also be grown of course, as well as kohlrabi, zucchini, pumpkins, turnips, beetroot and fennel. Even aubergines and artichokes should thrive well at Ghaub.

The list of fruits includes grapes, peaches and cape gooseberries. Papaya and mango trees were planted already. Prickly pears, as well as mulberry, lemon and orange trees, which are common on Namibian farms, have been around at Ghaub for decades, too. On top of that there is the native Maroola tree, from whose fruits the well-known Amarula liqueur is obtained. The fresh fruits which cannot be consumed will be processed into juice, syrup and jam. At the end of September, the first lemon syrup was bottled.

Since cattle breeding and game keeping are part of the farm operation of Ghaub, meat of course is one of the "Ghaub Farm Products". In future, the farm butchery will package beef in portions and deliver it to the lodges of Ghaub and its partners Waterberg Wilderness and Ondekaremba. The production of smoked meat is also planned.

The lodges will not only save on expenses, but also gain another attraction for their guests: fresh, untreated fruits and vegetables as well as meat from free-range cattle directly from the farm next door.

Guarded gates against poachers

Rhinos and other wild animals in the Ghaub nature reserve are now even better protected against possible poaching. After the Namibian road authorities gave the green light, Ghaub has erected guarded gates on its thoroughfares...

  • Guarded gate on the thoroughfare D 3022

    Guarded gate on the thoroughfare D 3022. Photo: Sven-Eric Stender

On the gravel roads D 3022 and D 2863 you have to stop now, when you approach Ghaub. A guard comes to open the gate.

Since poachers depend on cars to cart away their quarry, their possible activities are effectively hampered. On top of that, there is an increased risk of being identified, because surveillance cameras are installed at the gates. At Ghaub's partner, the Waterberg Wilderness nature reserve, gates on the thoroughfare have proven to be successful. In addition, even the poaching on the farms in the area noticeably decreased after they had been erected and manned.

The private Ghaub Nature Reserve also protects its wildlife through a series of other measures. The area is not only surrounded by a solid game fence, but is also patrolled daily by specially trained rangers. The so-called "Rhino Patrol" determines the whereabouts and condition of the white rhinos and transmits the information by radio to the reception.

The measures are financed by the income from accommodation and the rhino tours for the guests – per game viewing vehicle or on foot. Since the rangers of the "Rhino Patrol" inform the guides via radio, an encounter with the rhinos is almost guaranteed. Everyone benefits: the rhinos, the guests and Ghaub, which now employs about 40 people.

Ghaub helps museum

Ever won a lodge in the lottery? Or got one as a birthday present? An 83-year-old lady from Grootfontein can answer both questions in the affirmative: In the lottery of the Alte Fort museum, she won a stay at Ghaub and intends to give it to herself for her 84th birthday...

  • Erected in 1896 as a military base, since 1983 a museum: The Alte Fort in Grootfontein

    Erected in 1896 as a military base, since 1983 a museum: The Alte Fort in Grootfontein. Photo: Sven-Eric Stender

It is almost as old as Ghaub: The "Alte Fort" in Grootfontein was erected as from 1896, a year after the founding of the mission station Ghaub in the Otavi mountains. Since 1983, the historic building houses a museum, which is run with much care and voluntary commitment. However, it is low on funds to pay for the curator, for the care of the exhibits, for repairs to the building as well as for the gardener and the cleaners.

In order to fill up the museum’s account, in the middle of July they held a lucky draw with about 40 donated prizes. Ghaub contributed the second prize, a stay for two persons for two nights. First prize was a blue wildebeest carcass, third prize a high quality pair of Diesel sunglasses. The lucky winner of the second prize is 83-year-old Bertha Hamer who takes it as a birthday present: She turns 84 in September and will spend her anniversary with her sister at Ghaub.

The Alte Fort Museum had reason to celebrate, too: All 200 tickets were sold, so that the museum’s account could be filled up a bit. Winners are, above all, the many visitors to the museum. In the historic building they can undertake an exciting journey into the past, as it offers an overview of local history, an extensive collection on the OvaHimba people, jewellery and crafts of the Owambo and the San as well as old equipment of European settlers.

  • Steamroller in front of the Alte Fort Museum, which was used for road works in the copper mine of Berg Aukas about 20 km east of Grootfontein

    Steamroller in front of the Alte Fort Museum, which was used for road works in the copper mine of Berg Aukas about 20 km east of Grootfontein. Photo: Sven-Eric Stender

Guests of Ghaub can visit the museum during a day trip; Grootfontein is only about half an hour's drive from Ghaub.

Meandering through the "triangle of experiences"

Everyone has probably heard about Hoba Meteorite, Ghaub cave or Ombili San Foundation, not to mention Lake Otjikoto, the museums in Tsumeb and Grootfontein and the Living Museum of the Ju/'Hoansi. But who knows the Maria Bronn mission station? The winery Thonningii? The Khorab memorial?

  • Place of world history and yet little known: Here at Khorab in 1915 World War I ended for Namibia

    Place of world history and yet little known: Here at Khorab in 1915 World War I ended for Namibia. Photo: Sven-Eric Stender

All these and many more attractions are to be found in the triangle between the national parks Etosha, Khaudum and Waterberg Plateau – in a region that is widely ignored by most tourists. In order to change that, Ghaub Nature Reserve & Farm and about 40 other accommodation establishments, activity providers, museums, arts & crafts markets and municipalities in the region founded the tourism route Omuramba Meander. Ghaub was already involved in the preparation phase.

The initiator was the Ministry of Urban and Rural Development that contracted non profit organisation Open Africa to develop the route. It should also ensure to increase the benefits from tourism for urban and rural communities. Open Africa compiled information and photos of attractions and tourism products in the region and published it on its established web portal. In addition Open Africa produced information boards for eight locations such as Ghaub (former mission station), Waterberg Plateau or Fisher's Pan in Etosha which are referring to one another. There are also signs of the Omuramba Meander route at town entrances and at selected spots along roads. A brochure in digital and printed format is due to appear in time for high season in July.

"Our Omuramba Meander initiative serves to raise awareness for the variety of experiences the region has to offer," says committee chairman André Neethling. "Our region is not only a great stop-over en route between Windhoek and Etosha or the Zambezi region, but also a destination on its own inviting you to explore – or, as we like to say: to meander."

  • The logo of the route as an invitation to meander

    The logo of the route as an invitation to "meander".

Experiences at Ghaub and in the surroundings

Ghaub offers the historic ambience of the former mission station, Rhino Drive & Tracking, cave excursions and nature trails. It is also the ideal starting point fort rips to explore the area.

Day round trip: Mission station Maria Bronn – Grootfontein with Alte Fort Museum – Hoba meteorite – vineyard Thonningii – Khorab memorial near Otavi – Ghaub.

Stop-overs on the way to Etosha: Tsumeb with museum, St. Barbara church (1914) and Arts & Crafts Centre – Lake Otjikoto.

Stop-overs on the way to the Zambezi region (Caprivi): Hoba meteorite – Grootfontein with Alte Fort museum (maybe route via Living Museum of the Ju/'Hoansi – Tsumkwe with Arts & Crafts – Khaudum park).

  • Largest heavenly body discovered so far on Earth: The Hoba meteorite

    Largest heavenly body discovered so far on Earth: The Hoba meteorite. Photo: Sven-Eric Stender

Stop-overs on the way to the Waterberg: Hoba meteorite – Grootfontein with Alte Fort museum – scenic route east of the Waterberg – Waterberg Wilderness (accommodation; guided hikes to the plateau, Rhino drive & tracking, cultural tour with everyday life of the Herero in the countryside and in the small town Okakarara, nature trails with "botanical garden" and a "History Path" about the history of the Herero).

Alternative route to the Waterberg: Tiger gorge – vineyard Thonningii – Khorab memorial near Otavi – Otjiwarongo with crocodile farm and township tour – Waterberg Wilderness (accommodation etc.).

Mountain zebras brought to safety

Wire snares of poachers reduced the number of mountain zebras living on the neighbouring farm. One animal after the other suffered a painful death. The remaining four zebras, including a foal, were now brought to safety by Ghaub – with the help of a helicopter and a front-end loader...

  • Gently placed in the shovel of the front-end loader, the anaesthetised mountain zebra is brought to the transport vehicle

    Gently placed in the shovel of the front-end loader, the anaesthetised mountain zebra is brought to the transport vehicle. Photo: Ghaub

The joy at the new mountain zebras brought by the animal transporter to Ghaub a year ago was short-lived. Soon after eight zebras moved to the neighbouring farm, which is separated from Ghaub only by a low fence. Now and again the animals were spotted there, but the group became smaller and smaller. The reason: One animal after another got caught in one of the wire snares laid out by poachers in the vast and rough terrain, and died an agonising death.

At the beginning of May Ghaub, with the consent of the farmer, started a complex rescue operation for the remaining four mountain zebras. The animals were darted by the veterinarian from the helicopter. Then they were gently pushed by helpers in the shovel of a front-end loader in order to bring them to the transport vehicle, which was waiting on the farm road nearby. From there the animals were transported 10 km to the game-secure fenced-in area of the Ghaub Nature reserve. All three mares and the foal weathered the action well.

This game area of Ghaub was already home to a group of eight zebras with foals. It remains to be seen whether the two groups will now unite. In order to strengthen the population, Ghaub has ordered more zebras that should arrive in the course of this year.

  • Ghaub staff with anaesthetised mares and the foal

    Ghaub staff with anaesthetised mares and the foal. Photo: Ghaub

Hartmann's Mountain Zebra (Equus zebra hartmannae) is classified as vulnerable by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) on the list of endangered species. Due to estimates there are around 25,000 animals, most of them living in mountainous areas of Namibia. Rock engravings of zebra tracks on Ghaub suggest that the Otavi Mountains were home to mountain zebras in pre-colonial times.

In the footsteps of the ancestors

At the beginning of April, Ghaub welcomed an extraordinary personage who is personally linked to this place: former anti-apartheid activist Horst Kleinschmidt. In fact, there were two links. The first one was a photo he brought along, the second one was a gravestone waiting for him...

  • Klara Kleinschmidt with her sons Helmut and Wilhelm (1915)

    Klara Kleinschmidt with her sons Helmut and Wilhelm (1915). Source: Horst Kleinschmidt

"A picture that tells a thousand words!", Kleinschmidt notes down shortly after his visit of Ghaub: "Here in 2018 I stood at the very place where in 1915 my grandmother stood holding my baby father. (...) I came as a curious visitor whereas the photo is of my grandmother anguished by the war on the very doorstep of her home cradling my baby father Wilhelm Franz Heinrich Kleinschmidt, so named after Kaiser Wilhelm and after our missionary ancestor who made this country his home in 1838. My father’s older brother Helmut holds on to the white dress of Grandma Klara."

Kleinschmidt's grandfather Gerhard was employed by the Rheinische Mission as farm caretaker at the mission station Ghaub. After the last battle between the German Schutztruppe and the South African army during the Second World War, which had taken place in July 1915 on Ghaub, he tried to restart the farm operation.

Of course, Horst Kleinschmidt also visited the small cemetery at Ghaub, which is located on a hill about fifteen minutes' walk from the lodge. There he found the grave of his uncle Gerhard, who had already died at the age of two and a half years – even before the above photo was taken.

  • The grave of Gerhard Kleinschmidt

    The grave of Gerhard Kleinschmidt (photo: Ghaub); insert: Horst Kleinschmidt.

Horst Kleinschmidt was born shortly after World War II in Swakopmund, but grew up in Johannesburg from the age of four. During his studies, he protested non-violently against the segregation and illegal detention of anti-apartheid fighters. He was arrested several times, fled abroad in 1976 and spent 15 years in exile. Six years after South Africa's independence, in the Ministry of Fisheries he played a key role in combating corruption and establishing an equitable distribution of fishing quotas, securing access for all population groups. In 2005 he resigned because of increasing pressure to replace white employees with blacks without regard to skills or qualifications (Biography).

Since then, Horst Kleinschmidt has increasingly devoted himself to genealogy research. He is a descendant of the German missionary Heinrich Schmelen, who worked in Bethanien from 1814 and whose KhoeKhoe wife Zara (see Wikipedia) had translated the new testament of the Bible into her mother tongue.

More about the Kleinschmidt family on www.horstkleinschmidt.co.za.

African fruit trees recorded at Ghaub
  • Marula tree at Ghaub

    Marula tree at Ghaub. Photo: Nadia Löffel

  • Routes for recording the Marula trees at Ghaub

    Routes for recording the Marula trees at Ghaub. Source: Nadia Löffel

  • Marula fruits

    Marula fruits. Photo: Wikipedia

  • Cream liqueur and lemonade made from the Marula fruit

    Cream liqueur and lemonade made from the Marula fruit. Photo: Ghaub

Almost every one of our guests knows that Amarula is a popular cream liqueur made from the fruit of the local Marula tree. However, nobody suspects that hundreds of marula trees grow on Ghaub. Even we were amazed how many trees were counted here for a study.

The student from the Zurich University of Applied Sciences, Nadia Löffel, recorded 281 marula trees during her internship at Ghaub. Since she only considered trees that grow along the existing farm roads in a distance of up to 100 meters, the actual number of trees in the 120 km² large farm area is much higher, of course. Löffel measured the circumference of the trunks one metre above the ground and recorded location, environmental conditions and gender of the trees.

135 of the recorded trees are female and therefore usually bear fruit of the approximate size and shape of a Mirabelle plum. Under a thick and firm skin there is a thin layer of pulp that you have to suck because it is very firmly attached to the pip. It contains a lot of protein and vitamin C. According to Nadia Löffel, the pulp and nut in the pip have been used by humans for millennia (more about the Marula tree on Wikipedia).

Guests of Ghaub heard about the tree most of all because of the Amarula liqueur, which is made from the pulp and which is nice to drink as a liquid dessert or as a "nightcap". More recently the lemonade Vigo has been launched, which is also made from the Marula fruit.

Nadia Löffel summarised the results of her internship in a report she submitted in mid-March as part of her International Cooperation module in the Bachelor degree course in Environmental Engineering at the Institute for Environment and Natural Resources (in Wädenswil, Switzerland) of the Zurich University of Applied Sciences.